C-Bet Like a Pro: Simple Hacks to Win More Pots

06 May 2025

Intermediate

This material is for medium-skilled players

Most poker players either continuation bet way too often — or not nearly enough. And in both cases, they’re silently bleeding money without even noticing it. But what if there were a simple fix? In this article, I’ll show you a few easy shortcuts to help you c-bet correctly. You’ll avoid costly mistakes and start winning more pots — with less effort.

Let’s start with the basics. What is a continuation bet, or c-bet? A c-bet happens when the player who raised preflop follows up with a bet on the flop. Simple, right? But this is where most players go wrong. There are three major c-betting mistakes I see all the time.

Mistake #1: C-Betting Every Single Time, No Matter What

This is one of the fastest ways to burn money — especially on boards that don’t favor your range. Here’s an example: You raise preflop, the button calls. The flop comes    with two spades.

A lot of players will c-bet here by default — but that’s a big mistake. Why? Because this board is what I call a landmine. One wrong step… and boom — there goes your win rate.

Mistake #2: Only C-Betting When You Hit the Flop

In loose and splashy games, it might actually work to c-bet only when you hit — simply because nobody’s paying attention, and players will still pay you off. 

But once you’re up against more skilled opponents, that approach becomes a huge liability. It makes you way too predictable — and good players will punish you for it. It’s like only bluffing when you’re holding a banana — people are going to catch on fast.

Mistake #3: Using Oversized Bets Just to Protect Your Hand

If your main reason for betting is protection, you’re thinking about c-bets the wrong way. Protection isn't the primary purpose of a c-bet. In fact, there are only three good reasons to bet — and they apply to c-bets too:

• To get value from worse hands (get a weaker hand to call);
• To bluff out better hands (get a stronger hand to fold);
• To deny equity (stop your opponent from realizing their potential).

And don't stop there — always factor in your position, your range advantage, and the board texture.

So how do you fix these common c-betting mistakes? Let’s break it down. The first thing to learn is when to c-bet and when to check — and that starts with understanding position and range advantage. 

That includes your strong hands, medium-strength hands, draws, and even complete air. Here’s an example: you raise from an early position, the big blind calls, and the flop comes   :

This is a prime c-bet spot — your range is significantly stronger than your opponent’s, so you can bet with almost everything. But when you're out of position, it’s a whole different story. If you're out of position and don’t have the range advantage, you should mostly be checking. Let’s say you raise from under the gun and the button calls. The flop comes   :

This is a nightmare board for you. Why? Because the button’s range smashes this board way harder than yours — and on top of that, you're out of position. In spots like this, the best move is often to check your entire range.

Now look — I’m not here to turn this into a deep dive on solvers or Game Theory Optimal (GTO) play. Let’s be real: in live poker, nobody is playing perfect GTO. I mean, seat 4 just check-raised all-in with pocket threes on a board full of overcards. Do you really think he’s running PioSolver on his lunch break?

But ironically, both GTO ranges and the average live player’s range connect very well with this board. So whether you’re facing a solver or a maniac, the conclusion is the same.

Big takeaway:

• In position? Be aggressive with your c-bets;
• Out of position? Slow down.

Sure, this is a simplification — but just applying this one principle can have a noticeable impact on your win rate.

Now let’s talk about c-bet sizing. Your ideal bet size depends on four key factors:

• Position: Are you in or out of position?
• Range Advantage: Who has the stronger overall range?
• Nut Advantage: Who is more likely to have the best possible hand?
• Range Connectivity: How well does each player’s range hit the board?

And this is where I want to introduce a powerful concept: the c-betting flow chart:

I believe Jonathan Little was one of the first poker coaches to present this idea publicly — and it’s so simple, even your uncle who still thinks poker is all about reading body language could use it.

Question #1: Do I Have the Range Advantage?

If the answer is no, but you still want to bet — c-bet big. We're talking two-thirds pot or more. This is important: you're not deciding whether to c-bet here — you’ve already made that decision. This is strictly about sizing.

So when you're betting without the range advantage, you need to compensate with a bigger size to put pressure on hands that could float or continue. That said, most of the time, if you don’t have the range advantage, it’s better to check. But when you do choose to bet — make it count.

Now if you do have the range advantage, ask yourself the next question:

Question #2: Do I Have the Nut advantage?

If the answer is no, and you still want to c-bet — you go small. Small means roughly one-third of the pot. But if the answer is yes, meaning you have both the range advantage and the nut advantage, there’s one more thing to consider:

Question #3: How Well Does My Opponent's Range Connect with This Board?

This boils down to whether a large portion of your opponent’s range hits this flop in some way — and "hitting" doesn’t just mean making a pair. It can also include straight draws, flush draws, or strong backdoors.

Let’s break it down with a couple of examples. Say you raise from an early position and the big blind calls. The flop comes    rainbow:

In this case, the board is not very connected for the big blind. Sure, he might occasionally hit a king, a seven, or a deuce — but a big chunk of his range is hands like Q-J suited, 9-8 suited, Q-9 suited, or AJ offsuit — hands that completely miss this flop.

Now compare that to a flop like    in the same scenario. That board is highly connected for the big blind’s range. He’ll often have:

• Pairs (T-8, 9-8, 6-5)
• Flush draws
• Gutshot (J-9, 9-7, etc.)

Only a handful of hands whiff entirely, mostly overcards with no club or straight potential. So let’s return to the flow chart: 

• If your opponent’s range doesn’t connect well with the board, you stick with a small c-bet size;
• If their range does connect well, you go with a big c-bet size.

By following this simple decision tree, you’ll start using the right bet sizes at the right times, consistently.

To sum it all up, remember these three core principles for c-betting:

• Don’t autopilot. Always adjust your poker strategy based on position and board texture.
• In position, c-bet aggressively. When you're out of position, slow down and play more cautiously.
• Use smart bet sizing. Bigger isn't always better — size your c-bets according to range dynamics and board connectivity.

C-betting isn’t just about pushing chips in — it’s a powerful tool that can shape the outcome of a hand long before the river. Once you understand when to bet, when to check, and how to size your bets correctly, everything changes. You stop giving away money, and you start playing like someone who’s in control.

Want to make better decisions and win more with less effort? If you're ready to take your c-betting to the next level and make smarter decisions at the table, head over to Getcoach.poker. It’s time to start playing with confidence and improving your game, one smart bet at a time. GL!